British Gurkhas Nepal - Exercise HUMLA TIGER

 

British Gurkhas Nepal - Exercise HUMLA TIGER

Although current times are not easy within the Armed Forces, unique opportunities still exist for officers and soldiers alike! As the current SO3 G4 in Kathmandu, I was fortunate enough to join the Gurkhas on Ex Humla Tiger, a high altitude Adventurous Training expedition to the Humla region, one of the most remote regions of Nepal. Following a two-day minibus journey into the back of beyond and a flight (in what was small enough to pass as a toy aircraft) through towering mountain passes, we landed in a small town (Simikot) at 3,000m and two weeks’ walk from civilization! The dirt strip of a landing field was chiseled at an angle out of the mountainside and it took a fair few bounces of the plane before the solid stop! Acclimatization, donkey loading, guide finding, ration shopping (dhal bhat twice a day would be powering us through for the following three weeks) and we were all set for the off. My initial perception of civilization had already been left behind, but I wasn’t quite prepared for the remoteness we would be encountering. All in all we were a team of 11 people and five donkeys! The objective was to complete the Limi valley, trekking the southern section of the valley to the Tibetan border at Hilsa and continuing along the remoter Northern section (only recently re-opened) back towards Simikot. We predominantly rested weary heads in tents, but also found a few huts for refuge - tents being rather more preferable as the mud huts were populated by other forms of nature we were unable to distinguish. One rather memorable campsite was situated at 4,300m, tents perched centimeters from a vertical cliff below, whilst we sat beneath a colossal cliff face of potential rock fall - I wasn’t 100% confident I’d survive the night. The scenery changed dramatically by the hour with each site being uniquely overwhelming. Hilsa (on the Tibetan border) resembled a perception of space with dry, overpowering, desert mountainsides. The only people we encountered were leading their yak, donkey and goat convoys carrying salt, Chaing (the local tipple) and timber vast distances over tough terrain. However, a two-week walk to the local trading post was their equivalent of visiting the corner shop! The paths we ascended/descended (flat was rarely an option) continuously met the eye with doubt. I was utterly surprised the mountain goats could negotiate them, let alone a human and donkey convoy. At 4,300m we rather thankfully but totally unexpectedly stumbled across endless open plains, leaving any sign of life behind apart from a scattering of Tibetan villages, only accessible by foot or helicopter for a few months a year. Lakes appeared from nowhere, out of place sand dunes surrounded them and raging rivers with awesome beaches took precedence! Never did I expect to be trekking at 4,300m in my flip-flops along beaches! On one of our more memorable river crossings (needless to say no bridges) levels were dubiously high and currents incredibly strong and our fortunes took a potential turn for the worse. The intention was to negotiate the river utilizing the donkeys to ferry personnel, but as one donkey was dramatically swept downstream on his back this was ruled out! We are thankful that our insane local guide managed to grab a few of the team, supporting each other in a doubtful attempt of a river crossing, scrabble across hazardous boulders and drag the donkey to safety after it had bumped along and been swept to the bank! Surprisingly the Tibetan villages were incredibly wealthy in the midst of nothingness! Stone-built houses, open courtyards, beautifully clean streams running through and such hospitable people willingly hosting us for tea. I was incredibly excited about my cup and potential elevenses. However, Tibetan tea is a creation of yaks butter mixed with salt and the snack, evidently, a bowl of hard grown flour from the fields. A spoonful of flour followed by a swig of yaks butter (the Tibetan way to consume it) was not quite what I had imagined! We glimpsed a fascinating matriarchal society with wives having three husbands and certainly ruling the roost! We were vegetarian for the time we were away, but it didn’t stop the attempts to sling shot the illusive ‘blue sheep’, 200m above us on the cliffs - certainly one of the more demanding

methods of hunting I’ve encountered! The snow leopards were more productive in capturing their prey. Unfortunately, one event tainted the expedition, as I was robbed of a substantial amount of money on our penultimate day as we hiked out of the grand valley back to the base town of Simikot. Fortunately, with our local guru guides and a band of Gurkhas, the hunt for the criminal in a vast valley simply became the next thing on the ‘to do’ list which they seemingly thrived on! Within 24 hours, I received the majority of the money back, the whole valley was aware and involved, the thief was in a cell (apparently a notorious ‘badmash’) and the band of merry men quite ecstatic! I felt incredibly privileged to be a part of such a unique expedition to an area above and beyond all expectations. Having the opportunity to spend ‘quality time’ with the Gurkhas and gain an insight with them into their country and culture was fascinating. Those that grew up in the hills wondered what the awe-inspiring fuss was all about! I’m now recovering back in Kathmandu, piling down the food I craved and getting stomach cramps as a result of the different diet! Quite typical!
source:- kukri_2011pdf