Women Business
The face of the kindly matron beamed forms the pages of newspapers
and magazines across the country. The advertising copy promised relief from
“falling of the womb and all female weaknesses,” touting the product as “the greatest
remedy in the world.” The year 1879, and the product was unproven home remedy
called Lydia E. Pinkham’s vegetable compound. Lydia Pinkham, the woman whose
countenance graced the periodical pages, developed the advertising campaign the
traded on her benign image.
Pinkham brought to her marketing effort the passionate social
activism characteristic of many women of her era. Convinced that she offered
more than a mere product, she used her advertising to Campion women’s rights, temperance,
and fiscal reform. One of the cleverest marketing techniques was department of
advice. Encouraging women to bypass male physicians to seek guidance from
another woman, she dispensed practical suggestion about diet, exercise, and
hygiene, along with endorsements for her
own medicine yet Pinkham did not hesitate to exploit traditional feminine
fears- and feminine stereotypes- to market her product. She printed
testimonials from women reporting cures not only for range of physical
symptoms, but also for infertility, “nervousness,” “hysteria,” and even marital
discord. According to one early newspaper ad, the murder of a Connecticut
clergyman by his wife, whose insanity was” brought on by 16 years of suffering
with female complaints.” Could have been prevented by timely administration of
the compound to the affiliated women.
As a result of such bold marketing the company that Pinkham
had founded with her sons earned $200000 in 1881. Lydia Pinkham herself becomes
something of a folk heroine- the subject of popular songs, Jokes, and bawdy
verse.
Pinkham’s introduction of feminine packaging to capitalist
enterprise earned her a special place in the annals of American business as
well as women’s history. It also set pattern for women entrepreneurs in the
following century. The handful of women who emulated Pinkham’s success likewise
followed her in importing traditional feminine roles into the masculine world
of commerce. When feminine ideals collided with the realities of the
marketplace, however, the businesswoman often bested the lady.
Like Pinkham. Her successor consciously exploited their
images as women to promote their products. In some case the image at that of glamorous
socialite: arch-rivals Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Atden competed not only selling
cosmetics but also in luring publicity by their marriages to European
aristocrats. More often the image cultivated was that of mother or grandmother:
following Pinkham in this mold, for example, where Margaret Rudkin, founder of
Pepperidge farm, Inc., And Jennie Grossinger, who ran a resort hotel upstate New
York renewed for its food and entertainment. Grossinger managed to remain the
solicitous Jewish grandmother the eyes of her customers long after she had
hired a public relations man and Grossinger’s hotel began serving 15000 guests
a year. Women’s businesses tended to grow out of traditional women’s skills and
careered mainly to women. Lydia Pinkham and collected and administered folk
remedies to her family for year before the collapse of their husband’s real
estate business led her to began marketing herbal preparations for “female
complaints.” Margaret Rudkin, faced with comparable need supplement her husband’s
income, also looked close to home. She reportedly baked her first loaf of
additive- free whole wheat bread as part of a special diet for a asthmatic son,
and secured her first order from her neighborhood grocer in 1973.
To transform a home cart into a thriving business, these
female capitalists joined a canny sense of women’s tastes with the audacity of
a bumbler in creating and marketing innovations designed to shape those tastes.
In 1909 Elizabeth Arden introduces her first line of makeup, not then widely
considered respectable, as facial treatments.” As the beauty market began to
expand in the 1920’s she kept several steps ahead of demand: introducing, for
example, such exotic and vaguely medicinal concoctions as sensation salve, Arden
gland cream, and the Vienna youth mask. Applications of the youth mask,
constructed of papier-mâché and tinfoil, required the costumer to be hooked up
to a diathermy machine, which applied heat via electric current. Arden assured
the women who submitted to the treatment- and paid dearly for the
privilege-that were restoring dust skin tissue.
In addition to skin care cosmetics, Elizabeth Arden salons
eventually added hairstyling, readymade and custom clothes, and advice to
nutrition and exercise. Adren herself practiced and advocated yoga, adapting
the exercise for the women who frequented her salons and main health spa.
Competition salon proprietor Helena Rubinstein published a book expounding the
benefits of eating raw food and sold consumer on the diet. In promoting the
idea that a beauty salon could provide women with means to “remake” themselves,
inside and out both women manifested the conviction of American businesswomen
from Lydia Pinkham on that they were providing other women with something more
that a product.
Through they aimed to serve as well as to sell, however these
businesswomen frequently put profit ahead of altruism. Their advertising claims
were often extravagant, ever misleading. And when regulatory agencies such as
the FDA and FTC began to crack down on questionable business practices, female entrepreneurs
were as likely to be cited as their male counterparts. Helena Rubenstein, for
instance was force by the FDA to withdraw some of the medicinal claims she make
for her products.
The latent conflict between the profit motive and the social
service ethic of female entrepreneurs is perhaps best exemplified once again by
Lydia Pinkham: a passionate temperance advocate who had no qualms about selling
a product that contained sufficient alcohol to make it 40 proof.” grandma,”
backed by the women’s Christian temperance union, was selling bronze
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